Vina Robles The Arborist 2022

Other Red Blends from Paso Robles, Central Coast, California

Syrah 52%, Petite Sirah 30%, Grenache 9%, Tannat 9%

Purchase Price: $19.99

Wine Enthusiast 91, James Suckling 90, Cellar Tracker 88, ElsBob 90

ABV 14.0%

A deep purple to deep garnet wine with aromas of red fruit and spice. The mouth feel is dominated by herbs and dark berries. Medium bodied with balanced tannins and acidity. A short but complete finish. Will pair well with chocolate.

A fine wine at a very reasonable price, typically found at retailers between $19–25.

Through the Grapevine: While this wine doesn’t exactly illustrate how modern scoring has shifted from its original purpose, probably just the opposite, but now seems a good time to clarify how I personally rate wines. I use the industry’s familiar terms, 90–93 as “excellent,” 87–89 as “very good”, but I also believe these words have been inflated to the point where they no longer match the sensory quality of the wines. When assigning a value, I return to the original meaning of Robert Parker’s 50–100‑point scale, where wines in the 70s were flawed, the 80s were decent, the 90s were very good, and only wines in the 95+ range were truly excellent. Over time, the language inflated to match the numbers, and the numbers inflated to match marketing needs.

When Parker created the 100‑point scale, or more accurately a 50-point scale, he intended it to be broad, honest, and fully used. Scores in the 70s and 80s were meant to be normal, sound, drinkable wines ranging from “average” to “very good.” These wines were meant to populate the central region of a normal gaussian distribution with the tails reserved for those far below and far above average. Only wines with real distinction, complexity, and character were meant to enter the 90–95 band, and the 96–100 range was reserved for truly profound bottles, and the truly expensive. In that framework, an 88 wasn’t a slight; it was a clear, respectable value that was good but not exceptional: average. The scale was designed to give consumers a realistic sense of quality across the entire market, not just the top end.

Modern wine criticism has collapsed Parker’s system upward. Scores below 85 are almost never published and below 90: rare, even though Parker explicitly defined them as perfectly drinkable. The practical scale now runs from 88 to 95, with 90 functioning as a marketing threshold rather than a qualitative one. Retail pressure, producer relationships, and consumer psychology have inflated both the numbers and the adjectives attached to them. “Very good” has become “excellent,” “excellent” has become “superb,” and the entire 80–89 range, once the heart of Parker’s system, has been reduced to a no‑man’s‑land that critics, and marketers, avoid. The result is a rating culture where words and numbers no longer align with their original meanings, and where the nuance Parker built into the scale has been replaced by commercial necessity.

In the end, a 10‑ or 20‑point scale would have produced far more clarity, but that’s not the world we live in.

Marietta Cellars Old Vine Red Lot 74

Other Red Blend from Sonoma County, California

Vintages from 2019, 2020, 2021

Zinfandel (predominate), Syrah, Petite Sirah, Carignan, Grenache, Barbera

Purchase Price: $9.24

Robert Parker 93,Wilfred Wong 91, ElsBob 91

ABV 13.5%

A medium-to-dark purple wine with aromas of black fruits, a touch of earthy musk; medium bodied, supple but tannic, dry, with a medium finish. This wine will pair well with almost any food or as an afterwork refreshment.

An excellent table wine at a great price. I picked it up for under $10 but the lowest price I’ve seen lately is still a very reasonable $15.

Old Soul Petite Sirah 2021

Petite Sirah from Lodi, California

Purchase Price: $12.99

Wine Enthusiast 91, ElsBob 90

ABV 14.5%

Purplish red in color, aromas of black fruits, full-bodied, semi-dry with a tannic finish. The high tannic finish makes it a difficult sipping wine but will pair nicely with spicey, fatty foods. Try it with barbecued beef ribs or roasted pork.

An excellent fine wine at a very reasonable price. Petite Sirah is some of the best value wine on the market.

Trivia: Petite Sirah is a cross between Syrah and the very rare grape, Peloursin. It is called ‘petite’ because of its small grapes. The wine is one of the most opaque varietals known, with a cloudy look suggesting that it should be filtered but that’s just a natural characteristic of the wine.

J. Lohr Seven Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon 2021

Cabernet Sauvignon from Paso Robles, Central Coast, California.

79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Petite Sirah, 4% Petite Verdot, 3% Merlot, and 2% Malbec

Purchase Price: $17.99

James Suckling 91, Tasting Panel 91, ElsBob 90.

ABV 14%

Deep ruby trending purple in color, blackberries oak and vanilla aromas, full-bodied, dry, full tannins. An excellent wine to serve with beef cuts or just sipping it to unwind at the end of the workday.

A fine California wine under $20. A 90-point wine generally sells at a mean (average) price of $40.

Grace Town Old Vines Zinfandel 2018

Zinfandel from Lodi, California, USA

90% Zinfandel, 10% Petite Sirah

Purchase Price: $7.95

Vivino 90, Wine Enthusiast 85, ElsBob 86

ABV 14.5%

Ruby red in, oak with muted fruit aromas, medium body, dry, and acidic. Typically, medium-bodied zinfandels peak around 3-5 years in the bottle and this one does not appear to be an exception. I believe it’s past its prime.

This probably was a good wine several years ago. If you have it in your inventory drink it now but only after the alcohol has been flowing freely for an hour or two.