Castellani Sangiovese Toscana 2019

Sangiovese from Tuscany, Italy

Purchase Price: $14.99

James Suckling 91, Wilfred Wong 90, ElsBob 88

ABV 13%

A medium to dark garnet red, medium-bodied wine with aromas of red cherries and spice. Forward tannins and mild acidity give it a bit of structure, with a hint of sweetness that softens the edges. The finish is short but pleasing, an easy companion for pizza, tomato-based pastas, and hard cheeses.

A very good table wine at a reasonable price. Recent prices range between $14-24. Anything over $17 is a bridge too far.

Trivia: This wine hails from the Castellani family’s coastal vineyards in Tuscany, near the Tyrrhenian Sea, and is classified as a Toscana IGT. Though it’s made from 100% Sangiovese, a composition fully permissible under Chianti DOCG rules, it does not qualify as a Chianti, as the vineyards lie outside the designated Chianti zones.

The winemaker notes that they follow an “old traditional Tuscan vinification method.” Given the wine’s modest 13% ABV, this likely refers to fermentation in concrete vats, extended skin contact, and the use of native yeasts, a nod to pre-industrial winemaking. It almost certainly does not involve the more elaborate Governo all’Uso Toscano (translates roughly to Tuscan-style winemaking) method, which requires an early harvest, partial grape drying, and a second fermentation that typically results in higher alcohol and a richer body.

Off the Beaten Path

Not every grape is born to be a Cab or Merlot. Not every vine survives the frozen winter’s cold. But, sometimes, you can find a remarkably obscure wine, and you get what you need. (With apologies to the Rolling Stones.)

Wine does not need a household name or worldwide cultivation to leave an impression. Some, from the cracks and corners off the main viticultural beat, fill a glass with a style that beckons notice and draws a grudging nod of respect. Grapes of lesser renown are legion but here we will bow to three worthy of a close encounter. The Amur grape straddling the banks of the thousand-mile Amur River at the intersection of Russia and China; the Saperavi grape of a thousand names, slightly exaggerated, from the rolling Asian hills of eastern Georgia; and the Marquette grape born in the land of a ten-thousand lakes from the test beds of U. of Minnesota.

The Amur grape (Vitis amurensis) is an ancient varietal dating back to pre-Pleistocene times, a survivor at the margins of glaciers and regions of permanent snow and ice. Evolution favored a rootstock capable of withstanding sub-zero winters and the ability to send forth fresh shoots with the swiftness of kudzu covering a Georgia (State) pine, bravely managing the brief, wet summers of floodplains and permafrost.

Its native lavender to deep purple berries yield a full-bodied red wine with subtle aromatics, hinting at dark fruits and recollections of the long-gone boreal forest. The tannins are firm, the acidity cleansing; sharp enough to demand a gentle, sweet companion. Amore mio of chocolate and Amur. I tried a Amur wine in Beijing many years ago and I found it a worthy experience.

Saperavi (Vitis vinifera) is a rare teinturier grape, its flesh and skin both red, born in the soils newly freed from the retreating glacial ice and snow of southeastern Georgia, nurtured in the cradle of winemaking and civilization. Descended from wild vines cultivated over 8,000 years ago, the spirits and life of Saperavi still retain their vitality in modern times accounting for 30% of its total wine production. Georgians once fermented this varietal in qvevri, (kveh-vree—rhymes with every) egg-shaped clay vessels, dating to the Bronze Age, buried underground, where time, earth, grape, and chemistry converge in a spirited dance of Bacchanalian delight. Though about 10% of Georgian wines still develop in clay, most now age in oak, trading ancestral custom for ease and balance.

Dark as ink in a deep well and high in acidity, Saperavi yields wines that are intense and age-worthy, layered with plum, blackberry, clove, and sometimes a wisp of rising smoke. They range from bone-dry to deliciously sweet, each bottle a tale of terroir and ancestry. Today, the heart of prehistoric craftsmanship still beats in chests of these rugged Caucasus descendants. This wine is hard to find in the U.S., but if you’re in Georgia, try it, just have something sweet nearby to balance its acidity.

Marquette (Vitis vinifera × Vitis riparia, etc.) is a cold-hardy hybrid born in Minnesota in 2006, now finding homes in Vermont and New York. With its ruby hue, medium body, and notes of cherry, blackcurrant, and spice, it evokes a northern acceptance of the land’s tempered gifts. It survives brutal winters, resists disease, and thrives in organic soils that traditional wine grapes often shun. Though oak-aging adds depth, even youthful Marquette wines hold their own. Already, a few notable bottlings hint at its potential. The 2021 La Garagista “In A Dark Country Sky a Whole-Cluster Marquette”, received a rating of 92, described as bold and structured: $43.

Together, this trio of wines form a brave departure from the pack. They are not overt crowd-pleasers, not yet anyway, but a small, short break from tradition can’t be all bad.

Graphic: Amur Grapes, Vitis amurensis, by Andshel, 2015. Public Domain.

Bodegas La Purisma Old Vines Red Blend 2019

Red Blend Other (GSM) from Yecla, Spain

Monastrell (Mourvedre) 85%, Syrah 10%, Garnacha (Grenache) 5%

Purchase Price: $12.99

James Suckling 93, Wilfred Wong 90, ElsBob 89

ABV 14.5%

A dark cherry in color, medium to full-bodied, aromas of black ripe fruits with a touch of vanilla and spice. Balanced acidity and tannins with a strong, long finish.

A very good fine wine that retails around $11-19. Don’t pay more than $15 for this wine. Drink now or let it age for up to another 5 years. Cheers.

Trivia: Bodegas La Purísima is a cooperative of small-holding farmers in Yecla, Spain, united under the stewardship of María Teresa Ruiz González. Their old-vine Monastrell, over 40 years in age, thrives on 250 acres of sand and limestone soil. Grapes are picked by hand in late October, preserving the integrity of the fruit and the tradition behind the growers and the blend.

Millworks Pillar & Post Cabernet Sauvignon 2018

Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa, California

Purchase Price: $19.99 (retail range $20-22)

Cellar Tracker 89, ElsBob 89

ABV 14.5%

A deep, dense red with full body and aromas of black currants and blackberries. Tannins are assertive up front, balanced by acidity, leading to an excellent finish.

A fine wine with surprising structure and complexity at this price point. Drink now or hold for 2-3 more years.

Trivia: This wine was produced by Millworks, a now-defunct label and bottling entity owned by Paul Hobbs. Though both the company and label are no longer active, the wine’s origins trace back to Paul Hobbs Winery, where it was vinified using Hobbs’ signature methods and materials. The grapes were sourced from Napa Valley vineyards not owned by Hobbs, placing this bottle stylistically adjacent to his Sonoma Crossbarn project, which similarly emphasizes quality fruit and precise techniques, including wines crafted from both estate and non-estate sources. A quiet echo of Hobbs’ craftsmanship, delivered under a separate name. (Editor’s note: This section was pieced together from disparate and incomplete sources, so its accuracy may be imperfect.)

Tenuta Rapitala Hugonis DOC 2019

Red Blend Other from Sicily

Cabernet Sauvignon 50% and Nero d’Avola 50%

Purchase Price: $75 (Restaurant)

ElsBob 91

ABV 14.0%

A dense deep red, full-bodied, with aromas of red fruit and spice, well balanced with tannins that add a fine even structure, and a very long, pleasant finish. It was an excellent pairing with our entrées of Osso Buco and Braised Italian Ribs.

An excellent fine wine that retails from $38-60. $38 is a fair price to pay but $60 is a bit much. Drink now or hold for another 4-5 years. Cheers.

Trivia: Nero d’Avola grapes produce a full-bodied wine high in tannins with medium acidity and tastes of red fruits. Almost all Nero d’Avola wines come from the dry farms of Sicily and are a natural for blending with Cabs and Shirazes. The name originates from the southern Sicilian town of Avola which began growing the grape several centuries ago.

Drunken Monkey Hypothesis–Good Times, Bad Times

In 2004, biologist Robert Dudley of UC Berkeley proposed the Drunken Monkey Hypothesis, a theory suggesting that our attraction to alcohol is not a cultural accident but an evolutionary inheritance. According to Dudley, our primate ancestors evolved a taste for ethanol (grain alcohol) because it signaled ripe, energy-rich, fermenting fruit, a valuable resource in dense tropical forests. Those who could tolerate small amounts of naturally occurring ethanol had a foraging advantage, and thus a caloric advantage. Over time, this preference was passed down the evolutionary tree to us.

But alcohol’s effects have always been double-edged: mildly advantageous in small doses, dangerous in excess. What changed wasn’t the molecule, it was our ability to concentrate, store, and culturally amplify its effects. Good times, bad times…

Dudley argues that this trait was “natural and adaptive,” but only because we didn’t die from it as easily as other species. Ethanol is a toxin, and its effects, loss of inhibition, impaired judgment, and aggression, are as ancient as they are dangerous. What may have once helped a shy, dorky monkey approach a mate or summon the courage to defend his troop with uncharacteristic boldness now fuels everything from awkward first dates, daring athletic feats, bar fights, and the kind of stunts or mindless elocutions no sober mind would attempt.

Interestingly, alcohol affects most animals differently. Some life forms can handle large concentrations of ethanol without impairment, such as Oriental hornets, which are just naturally nasty, no chemical enhancements needed, and yeasts, which produce alcohol from sugars. Others, like elephants, become particularly belligerent when consuming fermented fruit. Bears have been known to steal beer from campsites, party hard, and pass out. A 2022 study of black-handed spider monkeys in Panama found that they actively seek out and consume fermented fruit with ethanol levels of 1–2%. But for most animals, plants, and bacteria, alcohol is toxic and often lethal.

Roughly 100 million years ago in the Cretaceous, flowering plants evolved to produce sugar-rich fruits, nectars, and saps, highly prized by primates, fruit bats, birds, and microbes. Yeasts evolved to ferment these sugars into ethanol as a defensive strategy: by converting sugars into alcohol, they created a chemical wasteland that discouraged other organisms from sharing in the feast.

Fermented fruits can contain 10–400% more calories than their fresh counterparts. Plums (used in Slivovitz brandy) show some of the highest increases. For grapes, fermentation can boost calorie content by 20–30%, depending on original sugar levels. These sugar levels are influenced by climate, warm, dry growing seasons with abundant sun and little rainfall produce sweeter grapes, which in turn yield more potent wines. This is one reason why Mediterranean regions have long been ideal for viticulture and winemaking, from ancient Phoenicia to modern-day Tuscany, Rioja, and Napa.

The story of alcohol is as ancient as civilization itself. The earliest known fermented beverage dates to 7000 BC in Jiahu, China, a mixture of rice, honey, and fruit. True grape wine appears around 6000 BC in the Caucasus region (modern-day Georgia), where post-glacial soils proved ideal for vine cultivation. Chemical residues in Egyptian burial urns and Canaanite amphorae prove that fermentation stayed with civilization as time marched on.

Yet for all its sacred and secular symbolism, Jesus turning water into wine, wine sanctifying Jewish weddings, or simply easing the awkwardness of a first date, alcohol has always walked a fine line between celebration and bedlam. It is a substance that amplifies human behavior, for better or worse. Professor Dudley argues that our attraction to the alcohol buzz is evolutionary: first as a reward for seeking out high-calorie fruit and modulating fear in risky situations, but it eventually became a dopamine high that developed as an end in itself.

Source: The Drunken Monkey by Robert Dudley, 2014.

Gaja Ca’Marcanda Magari 2022

Bordeaux Red Blend from Bolgheri, Tuscany, Italy

Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Petit Verdot

Purchase Price: $139 (Restaurant)

Wine Enthusiast 96, James Suckling 95, Jeb Dunnuck 95, Wine Spectator 93, Decanter 93, Vinous 91, ElsBob 94

ABV 14.5%

A dark red, full-bodied wine with aromas of black fruits, silky tannins, and remarkable balance. The long, enjoyable finish paired exceptionally well with our main courses of Osso Buco and Braised Italian Ribs.

A superb fine wine, currently retailing between $80–$120. Drink now or hold for 5–10 years. Cheers.

Trivia: Ca’Marcanda, GAJA’s estate in Bolgheri with roots in Barbaresco, Piedmont, part of the Wilson Daniels portfolio, was acquired in 1996 after 18 distinct and arduous negotiations with the previous owners. The name comes from a Piedmontese dialect expression meaning “The House of Endless Negotiations”, a nod to the persistence and diplomacy required to secure the land.

By Italian cultural standards, the name is not a slight but a compliment. Negotiation is seen as an art form, a process of relationship-building, emotional intelligence, and mutual respect. Naming the estate Ca’Marcanda honors that tradition: a story of tenacity, dialogue, and reverence for the craft of agreement, worn as a badge of honor by both buyer and seller.

Amalaya Malbec 2021

Malbec from Salta, Argentina

Malbec 85%, Taninat 10%, Petit Verdot 5%

Purchase Price: $14.99

Decanter 95, Wilfred Wong 91, James Suckling 91, Robert Parker 90, ElsBob 88

ABV 13.9%

A deep ruby in color, medium to full body, aromas of red fruits and spice. On the palate flavors of plum, very smooth, moderately acidic, with a short finish.

A very good table wine at a fair price. Drink now. Cheers.

Trivia: Salta wine region in the Calchaqui Valley of northwestern Argentina is better known for its white wine: Torrontes, but its Malbecs and Cabernets are gaining adherents. Salta has the highest altitude vineyards in the world with some at a breathless 9000’.

Maison Chapoutier Cotes du Rhone Belleruche Rouge 2022

Rhone Red Blend from Cotes du Rhone, Rhone, France

Mostly Grenache and Syrah

Purchase Price: $14.99

Wilford Wong 91,James Suckling 90, ElsBob 89

ABV 14.5%

A deep garnet in color, medium to full body, aromas of raspberry and pepper. On the palate it is full of red fruits, smooth, silky tannins, with a medium finish.

A very good fine wine at a fair price. I’ve recently seen this priced from $13-18. Likely close to peak quality, drink now. Cheers.

Trivento Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2019

Cabernet Sauvignon from Mendoza, Argentina

Cabernet Sauvignon 100%

Purchase Price: $11.99

Tasting Panel 91,Wine Enthusiast 87, ElsBob 88

ABV 13.5%

A deep ruby in color, medium to full body, aromas of red and black fruits, pepper, with a touch of vanilla. On the palate it is moderately acidic, slightly tannic, with a long, structured finish.

A very good table wine at a fair price. Drink now. Cheers.

Trivia: The Trivento name is a tip of the corkscrew to the three dominant winds around Mendoza: Polar, Zonda, and Sudestada. Polar winds bring cold air from the south. Zonda are strong, warm, and very dry west winds coming off Andes, often producing dust storms. They would be similar to Santa Ana and Chinook winds in the US. The Sudestada winds come from the southeast bringing humid air and generally prolonged rainfall.